Falconry – A Rusty Gauntlet Special Edition

Continuing with our advent calendar theme of 2022, we decided to create a set of magazine covers in the likeness of GQ or Men’s Health that capture the medieval essence for men. If such a journal could have existed, what sort of articles would it have contained? Anything and everything to assist a knight or his squire about to set out on a military campaign, crusade or pilgrimage. So please enjoy the snippets below from the June issues of The Rusty Gauntlet.

It must also be mentioned that some articles in these blogs are written as they would have appeared directly in the ‘magazine’, whilst others, due to wanting to be as informative as possible, are written from the present-day point of view. Either way, please enjoy.

Falconry, the hunting of wild animals in their natural state and habitat by means of a trained bird of prey, is thought to have developed in Mesopotamia, with the earliest accounts dating to around 2,000 BC. During the Turkic Period of Central Asia (seventh century AD), concrete figures of falconers on horseback were described on the rocks in Kyrgyz. 

Frederick II of Hohenstaufen (1194–1250) is generally acknowledged as the traditional founding father of falconry. He is believed to have obtained firsthand knowledge of Arabic falconry during wars in the region (between June 1228 and June 1229) and obtained a copy of Moamyn’s manual on falconry and had it translated into Latin by Theodore of Antioch. Frederick II made corrections to the translation in 1241, resulting in De Scientia Venandi per Aves. King Frederick II is most recognised for his work  De arte venandi cum avibus (The Art of Hunting with Birds) which he wrote toward the end of his life and which is widely accepted as the first comprehensive book of falconry.

The medieval Normans distinguished ‘falconry’ from the sport of ‘hawking’. The Normans practiced falconry whilst on horseback, whereas hawking was conducted on foot.  Both falconry and hawking were central to the Norman cultural identity in medieval times, with the sport quickly growing in popularity and spreading across England, Wales and Scotland. Falconry is also an icon of Arabian culture. Saker falcons are the national bird of the United Arab Emirates, Saudi Arabia, Qatar, Oman and Yemen and have been integral to Arab heritage and culture for over 9,000 years. They are the national emblem of many Arabic countries.

The Book of Saint Albans, originally Boke of Seynt Albans, is the common title of a book printed in 1486 that is a compilation of matters relating to the interests of gentlemen in that period. It is also known as The Book of Hawking, Hunting, and Blasing of Arms. This edition credits part of the book to Juliana Berners.

The hawking treatise is considered to be adapted from the Booke of Hawkyng after Prince Edwarde Kyng of Englande, a manuscript of the reign of Edward IV. The work is not intended as a full practical treatise, but to introduce the technical language, and to describe the care of birds of prey, for an owner who wishes to take an interest in falconry.

The work detailed the hierarchy of raptors and the social ranks for which each bird was supposedly appropriate.

EMPEROR – eagle, vulture and merlin

KING – gyrfalcon

PRINCE – gentle falcon: a female peregrine falcon

DUKE – falcon of the loch

EARL – peregrine falcon

BARON – buzzard

KNIGHT – saker falcon

SQUIRE – lanner falcon

LADY – merlin

YOUNG MAN – hobby

YEOMAN – goshawk

POOR MAN – male falcon

PRIEST – sparrowhawk

HOLY WATER CLERK – sparrowhawk

There is an enormous amount of material that references the list above and many experts note the errors, including the inclusion of the ‘vulture’ which is not considered a raptor suitable for falconry.

The following clip provides a great insight into falconry and was produced by Raphael Historic Falconry.

The following is a basic dictionary list of terms used in falconry.

Accipiter – a  genus of birds of prey in the family Accipitridae. With 49 recognized species it is the most diverse genus in its family. Most species are called goshawks or sparrowhawks.

Anklets – The leather strap which goes around the bird’s leg. The jesses are attached to this. Sometimes also called a bracelet.

Austringer – A person who flies short-wing or broad-wing hawks, also called a Shortwinger and sometimes (mostly in jest) “dirt hawker”.

Aylmeri – Leather anklets and jesses designed by the late Guy Aylmeri; replacement for traditional jesses.

Bechin – A small tidbit of food.

Bewit – Small strips of leather which attach the bells or other hardware to the bird’s leg. If a different material is used as a bewit, it should not be attached directly to the leg, but rather to the anklet. A cable tie is a great convenience, but must never be attached around the bird’s leg.

Bow Net – A trap that, when set, looks like a circle laying on the ground. When the bird comes in to investigate the bait, the trap is sprung causing the circle to release over the bird creating a semi-circle and a bag of net over the now trapped bird.


Bow Perch – The traditional perch for a hawk.

Bowse – To drink.
      
Braces – Leather straps on the hood which open and close it.

Brail – A leather thong used to restrain one wing on a bird to prevent it from bating (its wings), especially during manning (training or building a relationship with the bird).

Broadwings –  A reference to buteos, parabuteos and eagles (red-tailed hawks, Harris hawks, golden eagles).

Buteo – A genus of medium to fairly large, wide-ranging raptors with a robust body and broad wings.

Button – The folded section of leather that acts as a stopper for the jesses against the anklet, or the braided end of a leash. This may also be called a knurl.

Cadge – A frame serving as a perch used to carry several birds at once.

Casting – The lump of indigestible fur, bone, and other material that a bird casts up. This is usually called a pellet in owls.

Chaps – Leg protectors for a bird, primarily used when hunting squirrels as the squirrel teeth can severely damage a bird’s leg or toe.

Creance – A long line or cord attached to the bird while training. Ten yards is going to work for most situations, but for free flights to verify that your bird is ready to be taken from the creance, many recommend 50 yards in length.

Dho-gazza – A trap consisting of a net suspended between a bird and bait. The bird flies into the net and the net collapses around the bird entangling her. This can be more stressful than some other traps as the bird must be sorted out from the netting.


Falcon – Female peregrine falcon.

Falconer – Flies a falcon (slender, pointy-winged speedsters with steady wing flaps).

Falconer’s knot – A knot used to tether a bird of prey to a perch. Some sources show this knot to be identical to the halter hitch, but with a specific method of single-handed tying needed when the other hand is occupied holding the bird.

Gauntlet – The glove worn by the falconer, traditionally on the left hand.



Hacking – A training method that helps young birds of prey reach their hunting potential by giving them exercise and experience. This technique is used to prepare the falcon to become an independent hunter.

Halsband- The German term for a strap of leather looped around the bird’s neck and then hung down to help propel the bird (mainly Accipiters). Also called a jangoli.


Hawke – Female hawk.

Hood – The leather head covering used on hawks and falcons. The purpose of the hood is to hide the stimulus of the world from the bird’s sight to calm her or prevent her from reacting to things.


 Jangoli – A strap of leather looped around the bird’s neck and then hung down to help propel the bird (mainly Accipiters). Also called a halsband.


Jerkin – A male Gyrfalcon.

Jess (plural “jesses”)  – is a thin strap, traditionally made from leather, used to tether a raptor. Jesses allow a falconer to keep control of a bird while it is on the glove or in training and allow a bird to be secured on a perch outside its aviary.

Knurl – The leather buttons.

Lanneret – A male Lanner Falcon.

Leash- Traditionally leather, this is what attaches the bird to the perch or falconer’s glove. Modern leashes have taken many forms and many materials are used.

Longwings – a reference to falcons (peregrine falcons, kestrels, gyrfalcons, saker falcons).

Luggaret – A male Luggar Falcon.

Lure – A fake quarry used to train a bird. For training birds to feathered quarry, a feathered lure which looks like a bird is used, sometimes even mimicking the wing beats. For training to rabbits, birds such as Red-Tails are not terribly picky and will respond to almost anything they are trained to.

Mangalah – A cuff used instead of a gauntlet in the Middle East. Sometimes also called a mankalah.

Mew – The bird’s secure enclosure where she lives; the hawk house.

Musket – A male Sparrowhawk.

Owls (family Strigidae) – are not closely related to hawks or falcons and they are not commonly referenced in medieval falconry. However, at least two species have successfully been used, the Eurasian eagle-owl and the great horned owl.  

Parabuteo – A genus of bred of prey in the family Accipitridae which includes both the Harris hawk and the white-rumped hawk.

Ring Perch – A perch made out of a circular piece of metal where the hawk stands on top.

Robin – A male Hobby Falcon is called a Robin.

Rufter – A British term for a trapping hood or a hood that’s not polished and precise, but versatile fitting many different birds.

Sakeret – A male Saker falcon.

Screen Perch – A perch made of a vertical wall or screen topped by a bar for the bird to stand on.

Shortwings – A reference to accipiters (Cooper’s hawk, goshawk and sparrow hawks). 

St Hubert – The patron saint of falconry and falconers.


Swivel – Small metal joint used in between the leash and the jesses. When these birds are on the perch, they make many small movements turning around and such. Without the swivel they would very quickly become entangled and endanger themselves.

Tiercel – A male raptor, although technically this applies to a male Peregrine Falcon in particular.

Turk’s Head Knot – The knot used at the top of a hood. The primary function is to give the hood a solid handle to manipulate it, but it has also become decorative. Typically two knots are used together or a knot and a bead. More decorative versions include feathers or plumes.

Varvel – A less used piece of equipment. This flat silver or brass ring served several purposes. It was attached at the end of a long slitless jess as the attachment for the leash, but also served as the quick release mechanism when hunting. (A single strip of leather or rope could be attached to the glove, passed through the rings, and held by the falconer. When the falconer cast the bird from the fist the strip would be released allowing it to pass through the varvels and the hawk to be released.) It was usually engraved with the owner’s coat of arms. These have almost all been abandoned as they tend to tangle in brush and grasses.

Catherine A Wilson co-writes with Catherine T Wilson (no relation). Their first book, The Lily and the Lion, was based upon their true-life accidental meeting and resulting friendship. All four books in their ‘Lions and Lilies’ series have won first place prizes in the Chatelaine/Chaucer Awards in the US and in 2019, The Traitor’s Noose won the Grand Prize Chaucer Award.

The Lily and the Lion – 1st Place Chanticleer Chatelaine Award – 2014

The Order of the Lily – 1st Place Chanticleer Chatelaine Award – 2015

The Gilded Crown – 1st Place Chanticleer Chaucer Award – 2016

The Traitor’s Noose – Grand Prize WINNER Chanticleer Chaucer Award – 2017

Jousting – Not just a silly boy with a stick!

(THE RUSTY GAUNTLET – MAY EDITION)

By Cathy T

Continuing with our advent calendar theme of 2022, we decided to create a set of magazine covers in the likeness of GQ or Men’s Health that capture the medieval essence for men. If such a journal could have existed, what sort of articles would it have contained? Anything and everything to assist a knight or his squire about to set out on a military campaign, crusade or pilgrimage. So please enjoy the snippets below from the May issues of The Rusty Gauntlet.

It must also be mentioned that some articles in these blogs are written as they would have appeared directly in the ‘magazine’, whilst others, due to wanting to be as informative as possible, are written from the present-day point of view. Either way, please enjoy.

Jousting is a medieval and renaissance martial game between two combatants either on horse or on foot. The joust became an iconic characteristic of the knight in Romantic medievalism. The term is derived from Old French joster, ultimately from Latin iuxtare “to approach, to meet”. The word was loaned into Middle English around 1300, when jousting was a very popular sport among the nobility. 

It originated between the 10th and 13th centuries and began as a mounted contest in north-west France in the late 11th century. The mêlée, (on foot fighting) which was part sporting contest and part training for the real challenges of medieval combat, evolved into the joust during the high medieval era. Jousting became more of an entertainment for the king and his court when guns began to be used for warfare.

The basic equipment for jousting includes:

  • A suite of armour
  • A wooden lance
  • A shield

Knights without a team to attach themselves to were called “bachelor” knights and in the days leading up to the tournament there would be a series of paired events so that individual knights could demonstrate their skills and talents. Knights belonging to a mesnie or household would also partake in these events, especially if they had not yet made their reputations.

The tournament field was set up and the rules of the tourney usually allowed a knight up to three lances. Essentially the knights formed teams. The first part of the tournament involved the teams of knights parading onto the field side by side. This might be followed by some of the pairs of knights jousting. Jousts were, from the 13th to 16th century CE, a popular part of the European culture where knights showed off their martial skills.

From c. 1400 CE onwards they were separated by a barrier or tilt, hence the sport’s other name of tilting. Jousting was an important opportunity for heraldic display, general pageantry, and the chance for a knight to impress aristocratic ladies who might show them favour by giving them their scarf or veil.

A herald would blow a bugle to indicate that round one of the mêlée was about to begin a cheval (on horseback). This part of the mêlée involved mounted knights with lances charging at one another. Once the lances broke or knights were unhorsed the mêlée continued a pied (on foot) with round two of the tournament on foot with swords and maces. Obviously not all knights were unhorsed at the same time so the mêlée could be somewhat chaotic.

The best tournament knights didn’t necessarily dive straight in but held back and waited until the keener elements of the event had tired themselves out and then swept in and took plenty of prisoners. This technique was developed by Philip of Flanders.

Jousting fell out of fashion by the end of the Middle Ages, but there were occasional revivals up to the 19th century CE.


Usually lances are 6 feet to 7 feet in length. Many riders nowadays have their lances custom-made to 6 feet 9 inches. The length and weight affects the speed and accuracy, however, while the length of the lance was important for performance, it was just one factor among many that influenced a knight’s success in the jousting arena.

Black armour is in – Edward of Woodstock wore it

There has been much speculation over the years as to why Edward of Woodstock, son of King Edward III, was called ‘The Black Prince,’ – was it the colour of the armour he wore or his ‘dark character that showed no mercy.’ It was said that once he trod upon French soil, a devil was released. It also needs to be said that he didn’t earn that name whilst he was alive, but only afterwards. Here, now, I will throw another suggestion into the ring. The recent popularity of a series called ‘Bridgerton’ revealed one of the show’s characters, Queen Charlotte, had African Moorish decent – a black queen. Even more astonishing is that research tells us she was not the first of England’s ‘black queens.’ It also names Queen Phillipa Hainault (Edward of Woodstock’s mother) to have had a similar heritage.

 So, is it possible, Edward called ‘The Black Prince’ due to his mother’s ancestry? Food for thought but I guess we’ll never really know. We do know that he wore black armour (given to him by his father) making him distinctive on the battlefield.

LOOKING FOR THE BEST MEDIEVAL MOUNT?

In medieval times, horses were not known so much by their breeds as today, but rather for the function or physical attributes. There were four main types of horses used by medieval knights: destriers, coursers, rounceys, and palfreys.

Destrier

DESTRIERS OR GREAT HORSE

The destrier was the best-known war horse. It was renowned and admired for its capabilities in war, sometimes even attacking other horses. Large and hot-blooded, great horses were bred specifically to be courageous in battle. They carried fully armoured knights as well as saddle, tack, barding and weapons. Worth seven or eight times the price of an ordinary horse, less than 5% of war horses were destriers owned by a small elite of the wealthy knights.

Courser

COURSER OR CHARGING HORSE

A courser was a swift and strong horse that was also used as a war horse, generally preferred for hard battles because they were light, fast and powerful. They were valuable horses but less expensive than the highly prized destrier. They were widely used for hunting as well.

Rouncey

ROUNCEY

The rouncys was an ordinary, all-purpose horse. They were used for riding but also could be used in battle. It was not unknown for them to be used as pack horses. Squires, men-at-arms, and poorer knights were common users of rounceys, and a wealthy knight would provide rounceys for his retinue.


PALFREY OR AMBLER

Elegant-looking, mild-mannered horses with a smooth gait were bred with other horses of a similar temperament to create ‘amblers’ also known as palfreys.  A palfrey was a type of horse that was highly valued as a riding horse. They were very comfortable to ride on long journeys (anyone who has ever ridden a horse that ‘ambles’ knows exactly what that means!)

During the Middle Ages the palfrey was the most expensive and highly bred type of riding horse, sometimes costing as much as knight’s destrier! Consequently, it was popular with the nobles, ladies and highly-ranked knights for riding, hunting and ceremonial use, however, they were also used in battle because they could move quickly and easily even on uneven terrain. Knights would ride palfreys to battle to keep their heavier war horses from becoming fatigued before combat. The most beautiful palfreys were saved for parades and given special grooming and care.

No matter which horse was the choice, a good horse could mean the difference between life and death on the battlefield.

Catherine A Wilson co-writes with Catherine T Wilson (no relation). Their first book, The Lily and the Lion, was based upon their true-life accidental meeting and resulting friendship. All four books in their ‘Lions and Lilies’ series have won first place prizes in the Chatelaine/Chaucer Awards in the US and in 2019, The Traitor’s Noose won the Grand Prize Chaucer Award.

The Lily and the Lion – 1st Place Chanticleer Chatelaine Award – 2014

The Order of the Lily – 1st Place Chanticleer Chatelaine Award – 2015

The Gilded Crown – 1st Place Chanticleer Chaucer Award – 2016The Traitor’s Noose – Grand Prize WINNER Chanticleer Chaucer Award – 2017

The Rusty Gauntlet April Edition – The Longbow Vs the Crossbow – which is best? Sieges – were they a successful military tactic? Five extraordinary wealthy women in the Late Medieval period and we revisit Cathy T’s April 2014 Blog on the Court Jester.

Continuing with our advent calendar theme of 2022, we decided to create a set of magazine covers in the likeness of GQ or Men’s Health that capture the medieval essence for men. If such a journal could have existed, what … Continue reading

Chaucer’s Valentine’s Poem, 10 Fabulous Medieval Valentine gifts and How to Compose a Love Sonnet

Continuing with our advent calendar theme of 2022, we decided to create a set of magazine covers in the likeness of GQ or Men’s Health that capture the medieval essence for men. If such a journal could have existed, what … Continue reading

Martinmas Vs Halloween, Dragonwort and Sunburn and the Liripipe, an absurd fashion trend!

For our 2022 advent calendar, we decided to create a set of magazine covers in the likeness of Dolly or Cosmopolitan that capture the medieval essence. If such a journal could have existed, what sort of articles would it have … Continue reading

Medieval Banquets – what to expect, 10 Fabulous Medieval Idioms and what they mean, and Powerful Medieval Women who ruled from behind the throne – a spotlight on Isabella of France, in September’s issue of ‘The Chastity Belt’

For our 2022 advent calendar, we decided to create a set of magazine covers in the likeness of Dolly or Cosmopolitan that capture the medieval essence. If such a journal could have existed, what sort of articles would it have … Continue reading

Confessions of a Witch; Hawking, which bird to choose; St Mark’s monks need help and a free dress pattern! ‘The Chastity Belt’ in August.

By Catherine T Wilson For our 2022 advent calendar, we decided to create a set of magazine covers in the likeness of Dolly or Cosmopolitan that capture the medieval essence. If such a journal could have existed, what sort of … Continue reading

10 Herbs to Calm the Nerves, Henry V – a real goody two shoes – or is he? A letter to the editor and a fabulous new quiz – July’s issue of ‘The Chastity Belt.’

For our 2022 advent calendar, we decided to create a set of magazine covers in the likeness of Dolly or Cosmopolitan that capture the medieval essence. If such a journal could have existed, what sort of articles would it have … Continue reading

The Unfunny Humours, Taming those tresses, How to embroider and the latest love poem from Chaucer – June’s issue of ‘The Chastity Belt.’

By Catherine T Wilson

For our 2022 advent calendar, we decided to create a set of magazine covers in the likeness of Dolly or Cosmopolitan that capture the medieval essence. If such a journal could have existed, what sort of articles would it have contained? Anything and everything to assist the young maiden about to set out on her life’s journey as a wife and mother, and once there, all the information needed to be a good spouse and keep her husband satisfied, and at home when not away soldiering.

Such were our efforts that we now find ourselves tasked with writing some of these articles!  Well, why not? It might be fun… So please enjoy the snippets below from the May issues of The Chastity Belt.

It must also be mentioned that some articles in these blogs are written as they would have appeared directly in the ‘magazine’, whilst others, due to wanting to be as informative as possible, are written from the present-day point of view. Either way, please enjoy.

ARE YOUR HUMOURS OUT OF BALANCE?

TEN TIPS TO GET BACK ON YOUR FEET

Ladies, we are all aware of the four humours of the human body, namely sanguine (blood), yellow bile (choleric), black bile (melancholic) and phlegm (phlegmatic)

and how these four substances are organised around the four elements of matter (earth, water, air and fire), the four qualities of cold, hot, moist and dry, as well as around the four seasons, and even around the planets. Even our emotions are connected to the humours.

These four bodily substances must remain in harmony to be healthy. What then, can you do, if you are feeling a little ‘out of balance?’  Well, you might try these suggestions or adjust any of the following if you feel they are not what they should be. But do remember to consult a physician or an apothecary if the condition persists!

  1. Place yourself somewhere in which you can breathe good, fresh air.
  2. Make sure you consume the right kind of foods
  3. Make sure you consume the right kind of drink
  4. Be sure to avail yourself of some daily activity, preferably outside (see tip no. 1)
  5. Be sure to avail yourself of regular nightly repose
  6. Refrain from having too much sleep
  7. Refrain from having too much wakefulness
  8. Be sure you have regular daily expulsions
  9. Be moderate in your joy
  10. Be especially moderate in your fear and anxieties

HOW TO TAME YOUR LOOSE LOCKS

Having trouble taming those tormenting tresses? Then we are here to help you!

Our resident researcher checked out resources written by the famous Lady Trota of Salerno, (Ladies, the volume of Trotula; three medical texts for women written by three authors is MUST HAVE!) and passages from Tacuinum Sanitatis came up with this advice:-

Of course, your health has a lot to do with the condition of your hair, so if you are ‘under the weather,’ do be sure to read the article of getting your humours back in balance!

A good tip for starting is to always use a good comb made of boxwood, bone or ivory.

WASHING THE HAIR

Use a creamy mixture of ashes, vine stalks and egg whites to clean the hair and scalp or combine your favourite herbs or plant extractions with liquorice. Another is chamomile flowers infused in lye.

Crushed herbs mixed with olive oil can be combed through the hair to promote growth and make it smooth.

CONDITIONING THE HAIR

To condition the hair crush your favourite flowers and herbs, add essences of woods and spices to make a paste or mix with rose water to comb through the hair. This will also ward off demons!

From the ‘Trotula’ specifically:-

When she combs her hair, let her have this powder.

Take some dried roses, clove, nutmeg, watercress and galangal. Let all these, powdered, be mixed with rose water.

With this water let her sprinkle her hair and comb it with a comb dipped in this same water so that [her hair] will smell better.

And let her make furrows in her hair and sprinkle on the above-mentioned powder, and it will smell marvellously.

FOR TANGLE-FREE HAIR

A conditioner of pig lard and lizard can help remove knots. It is recommended to use rosewater, cloves and nutmeg on your comb after to remove the lard odour!

FOR A DRY FLAKY SCALP OR DANDRUFF

Treat scalp by washing with a preparation of willow tree leaves or bark soaked in wine.

Use the juice of beets mixed with water and vinegar for dandruff. It can also prevent hair loss.

TO TREAT HAIR LOSS

Use a tincture of aloe vera mixed with wine or straight onion juice. Rub into scalp.

Peach tree kernels, bruised and boiled in vinegar. Cool and apply to thinning areas.

TO COLOUR THE HAIR

First pre-condition the hair (this is important!)

Do this with pomegranate peel, vinegar, oak apples, alum or ash before applying the colouring agent.

FOR BLONDE HAIR

To lighten the hair, you have a choice of methods:-

Mix boxwood with agrimony.

Mix saffron and onion skins with stale sheep’s urine.

Sit in the sun after applying a tincture of white wine and olive oil.

It is also recommended for women with blonde hair to wear opal necklaces to prevent the hair from fading.

To enhance the gold, ashes of barberry and water may be used.

FOR DARK COLOURED HAIR

Use black henbane or sage to darken the colour.

Try soaking in water from steeped walnut shells.

Bramble leaves boiled in rye.

Once you have tamed these luscious locks, read on to see how you can best style them and be sure to see the article on how best to dress your veil!

VEILS ARE BACK! HOW TO MAKE YOURS LOOK STUNNING

Your mother or maid probably scolded you at some point when you excitedly ran out of the room without your head dressed correctly, that is – wearing your veil. I know I was! On many an occasion. And as a good and obedient daughter or ward, you returned and allowed them to finish dressing your hair without question even though beneath your gown, your feet were doing a dance that would run rings around the Scottish.  

Except one time, I did question it. And this is what my mother told me.

Married ladies no longer need the long, flowing locks of a maiden to attract a husband. We, matrons, have already accomplished that, but now there is a bevy of reasons as to why we cover up.

There is, of course, the religious nature of veiling to display modesty and restrict any flaunting of beauty for which our married status strictly forbids us. (No, the Church does not agree with the nature of courtly love).  Also, to keep control of our long hair so that one may carry out their daily tasks without hinderance. It is also more hygienic by preventing the transmission of lice and to prevent damage from both woodsmoke and the sun.

So, when the time comes and your husband wishes to avail himself of your beautiful golden (or brunette, red, or black) tresses, they are in the very best condition. I must admit that my husband loves to wrap my golden mane around him and … ahem! Where was I? Oh yes, veils. Well, to help you along, just keep scrolling down. And you will need a few implements to assist you such as veil pins, a simple material fillet and cap.  

Tutorial: How to wear 14th Century veils and wimples – The De Caversham Household (wordpress.com)

HOW TO EMBROIDER

The art of embroidery is considered luxurious; sumptuous fabrics decorated in silk, gold and silver thread for the finest clothing available only to the upper classes, or religious and secular narrative scenes adorning altars and vestibules in churches, but just how is this painstaking and precise, not to mention time consuming art form accomplished?

Example from the Opus Anglicanun exhibition

The main technique used today is called ‘Opus Anglicanum’ (English work). The stitches used are laid and couched work, stem and satin stitch, split stitch, and chain stitch. Couching is the technique of laying thread on top of the fabric and tying it down with a second thread, (or in the case of laid work, threads). First the design is drawn out on paper and transferred to the fabric with charcoal in a technique known as ‘pouncing’.

The design is then embroidered using two techniques which were characteristic of English medieval embroidery: split stitch (shown here with white and coloured silk thread), and underside couching (usually silver or gold, as here).

The small figure recreated below will take a medieval embroider roughly 35 hours to complete.

Here are ten comon stitches to help you get started, but there are at least sixteen more I can share in a later issue.

Here are some examples of such embroidery.

CHAUCER’S LATEST LOVE POEM

I couldn’t do this next piece without some formal introduction to our subject’s guest, Geoffrey Chaucer.

Geoffrey was an English poet, author, and civil servant, and around 1357 he became page in the household of Elizabeth de Burgh, wife to Lionel of Antwerp, King Edward III’s second son, thus bringing him into the court circle.

During the early years of ‘The Hundred Years War,’ Geoffrey travelled with Lionel’s household to France as part of the English army. He was captured during the Siege of Rheims in 1360 and Edward sent a courier to pay his ransom of sixteen pounds (equal to over twenty-one thousand pounds in 2021) and thus Geoffrey made his first appearance in Lions and Lilies for the courier Edward employed was none other than Gillet de Bellegarde!

Chaucer has been called the ‘father of English literature,’ or the ‘father of English poetry.’ He was the first writer to be buried in Westminster Abbey in what has since become Poets’ Corner.

The poem, ‘Merciless Beauty’ is written as a triple rondel. A rondel has two quatrains that are followed by a quintet, a set of five lines. The verse form has its origins in lyrical poetry of 14th-century France. In the case of traditional rondels, the first two lines of the first stanza are refrains. This means that the lines are used and reused at other moments in the text.

This poem is venerating a beautiful woman with whom the author has fallen deeply in love. Drawn by her eyes, he, who was once serene, now finds himself shaken by the depth of his feelings and keenly feels the sharp pain in his heart by her refusal or abandonment. So much, he declares that she has no pity for him so it is useless for him to complain. And her beauty is so great, it has left her without mercy. He will die loving her. Until the third quatrain when he is released from Love’s prison, where he states if he must love, he will love with his whole heart (fat) for he never expected to be sparing with his feelings (lean), but now that he has escaped, he will not return to such a tormenting prison again.

Merciles Beaute’ is known from only one other surviving manuscript, Magdalene Collage Cambridge MS Pepys 2006. Original version and a translation follows. Here is the article as it appeared in our fictional June issue of ‘The Chastity Belt.’

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Dearest maidens and ladies of distinction,

We know you have all been waiting for our latest instalment into the writing of our handsome poet, Geoffrey Chaucer. Dare I say it, you will not be disappointed! It is everything we maidens love reading; penned with such feeling it will have tears flowing gracefully down your cheeks! Of whom does our mysterious man speak? A true love abandoned, mayhap? A one-time lover? Or some wonderous lady that he set upon a pedestal and adored from afar, married perhaps and unattainable! You decide…

Merciles Beaute

I

Your yen two wol slee me sodenly;

I may the beautee of hem not sustene,

So woundeth hit throughout my herte kene.

And but your word wol helen hastily

My hertes wounde, while that hit is grene,

Your yen two wol slee me sodenly;

I may the beautee of hem not sustene.

Upon my trouthe I sey you feithfully

That ye ben of my lyf and deeth the quene;

For with my deeth the trouthe shal be sene.

Your yen two wol slee me sodenly;

I may the beautee of hem not sustene,

So woundeth it throughout my herte kene.

II

So hath your beautee fro your herte chaced

Pitee, that me ne availeth not to pleyne;

For Daunger halt your mercy in his cheyne.

Giltles my deeth thus han ye me purchaced;

I sey you sooth, me nedeth not to feyne;

So hath your beautee fro your herte chaced

Pitee, that me ne availeth not to pleyne.

Allas! that Nature hath in you compassed

So greet beautee, that no man may atteyne

To mercy, though he sterve for the peyne.

So hath your beautee fro your herte chaced

Pitee, that me ne availeth not to pleyne;

For Daunger halt your mercy in his cheyne.

III

Sin I fro Love escaped am so fat,

I never thenk to ben in his prison lene;

Sin I am free, I counte him not a bene.

He may answere, and seye this and that;

I do no fors, I speke right as I mene.

Sin I fro Love escaped am so fat

I never thenk to ben in his prison lene.

Love hath my name ystrike out of his sclat,

And he is strike out of my bokes clene

For evermo; [ther] is non other mene.

Sin I fro Love escaped am so fat,

I never thenk to ben in his prison lene;

Sin I am free, I counte him not a bene.

Translation

Your eyes two whole slay me suddenly;

I may the beauty of them not sustain

So wounds it, throughout my heart keen.

Unless your word will heal, all hastily,

My heart’s wound while it is yet green,

Your eyes two whole slay me suddenly;

I may the beauty of them not sustain.

By my truth, I tell you faithfully

That you are of my life and death the queen,

For at my death the truth shall be seen:

Your eyes two whole slay me suddenly;

I may the beauty of them not sustain,

So wounds it throughout my heart keen.

So has your beauty from your heart chased

Pity, that it avails not to complain,

For Pride holds your mercy by a chain.

Though guiltless, my death you have purchased.

I tell you truly, needing not to feign,

So has your beauty from your heart chased

Pity, that it avails not to complain.

Alas, that Nature has in you placed

Such great beauty that no man may attain

To mercy though he die from the pain,

So has your beauty from your heart chased

Pity, that it avails not to complain,

For Pride holds your mercy by a chain.

Since I’m from Love escaped yet so fat,

I never plan to be in his prison lean;

Since I am free, I count it not a bean.

He may answer and say this and that;

I care not: I’ll speak just as I mean.

Since I’m from Love escaped yet so fat,

I never plan to be in his prison lean.

Love strikes my name from his slate flat,

And he is struck out of my books clean

For evermore; my sole course it has been.

Since I’m from Love escaped yet so fat,

I never plan to be in his prison lean;

Since I am free, I count it not a bean.

Note from translator:

Merciless Beauty, one of the great glories of English poetry, is particularly difficult to translate without damage. Chosen here, for the sake of clarity, to substitute eyes for eyen, thus losing some of the music, and to use the modern sustain replacing sustene thus destroying the strict rhyme.

Catherine A Wilson co-writes with Catherine T Wilson (no relation). Their first book, The Lily and the Lion, was based upon their true-life accidental meeting and resulting friendship. All four books in their ‘Lions and Lilies’ series have won first place prizes in the Chatelaine/Chaucer Awards in the US and in 2019, The Traitor’s Noose won the Grand Prize Chaucer Award.

The Lily and the Lion – 1st Place Chanticleer Chatelaine Award – 2014

The Order of the Lily – 1st Place Chanticleer Chatelaine Award – 2015

The Gilded Crown – 1st Place Chanticleer Chaucer Award – 2016The Traitor’s Noose – Grand Prize WINNER Chanticleer Chaucer Award – 2017